Mar 10

Mar 10 Arc'teryx Alpha Pullover (2020)

Alex Rakestraw

Active, GORE-TEX, Review, Shell

Arc’teryx Alpha Pullover (2020)

Type: Shell / Use: Active / Face: Nylon / Insulation: n/a

Technologies: GORE-TEX 3L

Price: $499.00

Here’s the lede: the Arc’teryx Alpha Pullover is an outerwear grail.

Mechanically disadvantaged but charming for it, anoraks are the Porsche 911 of performance jackets. Compared to their mid-engined brethren (i.e., the full-zip Alpha SV), there are some serious drawbacks to have all the big bits up to one side. But the shape. The nostalgia. It just makes you want one that much more.

Before long, the crimes against optimization wash away in pure aesthetic experience. Until the occasional bad day violently reminds you of them. But in the time between those bad days, there is bliss - the kind that perfect solutions just don’t provide.

Still following the metaphor? Me neither. But here’s where the rubber hits the road.

If anoraks are 911’s, the Alpha Pullover - in all its bright, over-spec’d glory - might as well be the Turbo.

Performance-wise, it’s a beast. Nylon-faced 3L GORE cocoons you. WaterTight zips do what’s on the tin. In practice, this is a giant sheet of GORE-TEX with fewer holes in it than a full-zip - and it shows. I’ve carried a duffel 20 blocks in pouring rain with the Alpha Pullover and nothing got through.

But because it’s Arc’teryx, the whole thing is surprisingly nimble. I really enjoyed just how agile the Alpha Pullover feels compared to other hardshell anoraks. Most of this is due to roomy shoulders that prevent the adjustable hemline from riding up every reach, but it’s also worth mentioning that there’s a full-length zip up the right armpit that makes for easy takeoffs. It’s the not-so-little things.

Speaking of not-so-little: the big story with the Alpha Pullover is how this bird gets its plumage. According to the brand, the Alpha’s distinctive color-blocking comes from upcycled raw materials. The Bourbon/Cyan shown was once considered “scrap” GORE-TEX before it was reclaimed from Arc’s Canadian factory.

It’s a neat story with gorgeous results, and one Arc should be commended for. It does, however, feel a little overplayed. Just like with re-commerce, Arc is slow on the upcycling draw compared to Patagonia (WornWear + ReCrafted) and The North Face (Renewed + The Design Residency).

Here, they’ve taken upcycling to a pure performance dimension that neither of their competitors have touched. But, ya know, maybe that’s stitching together off-cuts isn’t the most optimal waterproofing solution around. And just like that, we’re back to rear-engines.

However Arc got to the Alpha Pullover, I’m just happy they did. Sure it’s suboptimal. It’s also an over-specced statement jacket that can fold down into your bag. As mentioned: this is an outerwear grail. I shrug at the idea of serious outdoorsmen using this limited-edition, $499 upcycled anorak in alpine pursuits when its full-zip brethren are both a) the same price and b) more widely available.

But as a style piece, it is sublime.

Worn with black chinos, the Alpha is elite, its jagged lines an aggressive reminder of the pure capability a GORE-TEX 3L alpine jacket offers. Worn with earth-tone field pants, the jacket’s turquoise/sand color scheme and retro shape brings to mind the American Southwest - halfway to visvim’s retrofuturism, with one foot planted firmly in “futurism.”

Make no mistake: this is not a daily driver. It’s just too loud, too unforgettable even, for frequent wear. But as I spent more time with it, I found “frequent” getting more and more blurry. I wear my Alpha with the gluttonous rationing of a kid on November 3rd. Eventually, the candy will run out. But until then, I’ll make the hits last as long as possible.

In summary, the Alpha Pullover is a hardcore fashion piece - a performance shell with all the right flaws, the kind you fall in love because it’s imperfect.

There’s a reason Arc’teryx discontinued fan favorites like the Beta AR and Atom Pullovers years ago. When push comes to shove, optimization just works better. But there’s no replacement for charm. And the Alpha Pullover? Well, that’s Steve McQueen.